I’m taking a break from life. From the ever advancing procession of work
projects and the rigid training schedule that I put upon myself to keep in
shape. From the 6:00 a.m. alarm and the
grind of pace runs and 1-minute sprints.
From a relentless schedule of meetings and work sessions and
teleconferences. From Excel spreadsheets
dense with customer data and sales figures.
I’m tired and I think it shows.
Water is a foreign territory. I approach it with apprehension, my jaw set
against the unknown. Tiny baby steps
towards the surf. By Pacific Ocean
standards, it is a calm day, but I cower and shiver when my toes touch
water. Is this what it is like to see
snow for the first time, asking what is this stuff, will it hurt me, should I
eat it, what do I do with it – play with it, mold it? I watch other newcomers, white skinned and
bashful, approach this big sea the same way.
I’m not alone.
Another day, I lay across a boogie board, facing
southwest. There is nothing for
miles. If I was swept away from this
happy place, I would be poached by the naked sun and eaten by sharks long
before my remains would wash up on another shore. But this beach and its ocean ring are as safe
as a bathtub. There’s no rip current or
infestation of box jellies and my husband tells me that the helicopter passing
overhead is patrolling for sharks. That
makes me feel better for some reason.
I’m picturing a SWAT team of shark killers jumping out of that heli’s
hatch, HALO style, on the offensive.
It’s safe, even if only in my mind.
On Wednesday, we swim a protected stretch of ocean. My crawl stroke navigation is confused – the
water is cloudy and there is no blue line along the bottom to guide me. I swim zig-zags and find myself back at the
shore when I intended to be paralleling it.
At last, I get the hang of it, breathing always over my right shoulder
to catch a glimpse of the land, thereby keeping myself on course. By the time I have traveled a hundred yards,
my mouth tastes retched from salt and I stop to spit. I dog paddle for a bit, take a few more free
style strokes forward, then roll onto my back and, through my frosted goggles
squint up at the sky. I float like that
for a moment, becoming so disoriented I am vertiginous. All I see is the cloudless sky and I cannot
tell if I am drifting into deeper water or towards shore or in a steady
state. Later, I dive and swim like a
dolphin along the sandy bottom, dragging my fingers through the course sand,
picking up shards of coral.
I’m sitting cross-legged on a stand up paddle board. My legs are jelly from the effort of
balancing in the stand up position and I want to take a rest, so I’m
lolly-gagging, lazily dipping my paddle in and out of the ocean’s rippled
surface. The swells undulate
gently. Beneath me and my board, the
water is glassy and I can see all the way to the bottom where sandy trails wind
through coral heads. I uncross my legs
and lower my feet into the ocean, straddling the board. The water is cool upon entry, but warms
immediately. A bulbous sea turtle swims
gracefully by, coasting along the ocean floor.
He surfaces, his leathery head rotating and he takes a breath of salty
air, then dives back into his aqueous habitat.
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